Fabric Inspection, Measuring and Rolling Machines: A Buyer's Specification

Start with the fabric, not the machine

Inspection frames sit at the end of the dyeing and finishing chain or at incoming inspection in a garment plant. Before asking for quotations, list the fabrics that will run: construction, width range, weight range, whether they arrive open-width or tubular, and whether they contain elastane. A list of single jersey and rib from your circular knitting department leads to a different machine from heavy twills off your weaving floor. Many suppliers sell one model name in several configurations; our note on comparing configurations rather than model names applies directly here.

Tensionless versus tensioned feeding

Knitted fabric extends under very small forces. If the machine pulls it across the inspection table, the length counter records stretched metres, the width shrinks while it is being measured, and the roll is built under strain that relaxes later in the warehouse. Machines sold for knits therefore advertise tension-free or "tensionless" running, typically with a driven unwinding stage and slack control before the inspection area. Taiwanese builder Oshima, for example, describes no-tension inspection for knits on its OC-5 series, alongside adjustable winding tension for looser or tighter rolls.

Wovens are usually run with some controlled tension so the fabric lies flat and tracks straight. Ask any supplier how feed and take-up speeds are controlled, whether they can be set per article, and how slack is detected.

A reference point helps when you check measurements. ISO 22198 sets out how to measure the length and width of a fabric held relaxed and free of tension, for full-width, centre-folded or tubular pieces up to 100 m; it excludes coated fabrics and does not deal with defects. Measuring one roll by that method and comparing it with the machine's counter tells you how much your feed setting distorts the result.

The grading system belongs to the contract

The machine shows defects; the grading system scores them. ASTM D5430, *Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics*, is the reference most buyers cite. The current edition, D5430-26, was updated in March 2026. ASTM describes it as suitable for acceptance of commercial shipments when purchaser and supplier agree, and warns that the point-assignment options in the standard can give considerably different penalty totals for the same rolls, so both sides should use the same option.

The option most often reproduced by inspection companies is the 4-point system. As summarised by the inspection firm V-Trust, a defect up to 3 in scores 1 point, over 3 to 6 in scores 2, over 6 to 9 in scores 3 and anything longer scores 4, with no single defect scoring more than 4. Results are normalised to points per 100 square yards: total points × 3,600 ÷ (width in inches × yards inspected). Pass limits such as 40 points per 100 sq yd are set by buyers, not by the standard. A 10-point system is also used in some sectors, but it has different bands, so the option must be named in your purchase specification, together with the edition.

For the machine, this means the table must present the full width at a speed the inspector can read, the controls must allow stopping and reversing to measure a defect, and any software must calculate the option you contracted for.

Light, length, weight and edges

Lighting. We found no standard figure we could verify for inspection-table illumination, so treat it as a test item: inspect a known reference roll on the offered frame under its own lighting, and agree back-lighting or reflected-light requirements for your fabrics.

Length. Ask how length is counted (measuring roll, encoder), at what point in the path, and what accuracy is claimed. Oshima quotes accuracy up to 0.1 yd on the OC-5; claims like this hold only at a stated speed and tension.

Weight. Some frames offer weighing as an option rather than as standard; Oshima lists an optional weighing and cutting device. If you need weight per roll or calculated GSM on the label, put it in the scope.

Edge alignment. Automatic edge alignment keeps selvedges flush on the roll. Mechanisms differ; Oshima's basic model uses a mechanical spiral-rod system. Test it on your narrowest, widest and most curling fabric.

Automatic and camera defect detection

Uster's published technical data for its EVS Fabriq Vision lists different light sources (white LED, blue side light, UV, infrared) chosen per fabric, automatic pre-classification by shape, size, contrast and repeat interval, continuous width and length measurement, and defect maps that can be passed to a cutting table. A cheaper camera kit will not necessarily do the same.

To test a detection claim, prepare a reference length of your own fabric with logged real and marked defects, run it at production speed, and count detections, misses and false alarms. Repeat on a second fabric. Our guide to trials with your own material covers how to ship and label samples.

Rolling, batching and packing

The take-up decides whether the roll suits the cutting room or the next process. Specify core type and diameter, maximum roll diameter and weight, whether you need folding (plaiting) instead of rolling, label printing, and any link to a wrapping or weighing line downstream. Knits often need relaxation before or after this stage; if heat setting is in your route, see our note on stenters and overfeed.

How this appears in listed equipment

Three directory listings show why configuration must be confirmed in writing:

• The Guangfan G7 is listed for inspection and rolling of knitted and woven fabric, but its model page gives no complete numerical specification, and edge-alignment functions described on a second page need confirming for the machine offered. See the Guangfan profile.
• Hedeng's tensionless inspection and rolling series is an equipment family rather than one model; its photographs show inclined inspection surfaces and roll handling. More on the Hedeng page.
• The Jinlong JL-G7 is named as an automatic edge-alignment inspection and rolling machine with a 0–150 m/min speed description, and the maker notes configuration can depend on the user. Check the Jinlong listing for its range.

The guide to reading a manufacturer profile explains how to read what a manufacturer publishes.

What to put in the order

• Fabric list with width, weight, structure and incoming form.
• Feed mode per fabric and the maximum tension allowed.
• Grading system, option and edition; software calculation if supplied.
• Length and weight measurement method and accuracy at a stated speed.
• Edge alignment range and roll specification.
• Camera system scope and a detection test on your reference roll.
• Electrical supply and power, wear parts under your spare parts terms, and measurements to repeat at factory acceptance.

Sources

1. "ASTM D5430-26 – Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics", ASTM International, accessed 2026-11-04. (Superseded edition D5430-13(2017): View source
2. "ASTM D5430 4-Point System", V-Trust Inspection Service, accessed 2026-11-04. View source
3. "ISO 22198:2006 – Textiles – Fabrics – Determination of width and length", AFNOR Editions (ISO standard listing), accessed 2026-11-04. View source
4. "Auto Edge Alignment Inspection OC-5B/5K/5KB", Oshima (Taiwan), accessed 2026-11-04. View source
5. "USTER EVS FABRIQ VISION – Technical Data" (June 2023), Uster Technologies AG, accessed 2026-11-04. View source